Where to climb in West Liguria
- March 29, 2020
- Residence Oliveto
“I didi t!” Here what a child joiously esclaims after climbing a stack of objests, as well as a chair or any kitchen cabinets, he achieved his goal. Kids use to do it daily, instintively, in front of any object.
To climb up, reach the top, it’s always an achievement
Here, in West Liguria, the are a lot of climbing opportunities, and that’s what we want to tell you about today!
Freeclimbing: health benefits & life style
Climbing is an increasingly popular activity. Even in Liguria, there is a “boom” of climbing walls equipped with artificial holds in playgrounds and shopping malls, as well as a lot of indoor climbing gyms.
Not only an high-adrenaline activity but a true source of well-being, climbing is healthy for both body and mind……In fact, as the famous climber Benjamin Staffler said om “mountainSpirit blog”: “The fascinating aspect of climbing is the close contact with the crag with which you have a special relationship step by step.”
Why climb in Liguria
The pleasure of climbing is in the vertical rock, as well as in the surroundings landscape. This is one of the main reasons why Liguria is considered a true climber’s paradise.
Thanks to a good exposure and favorable weather conditions, Italian Riviera is accessible all year round. A big choice of crags, suitable for each season. From sunny rocks in wintertime, to sheltered ones for windy days and of course…more shadowed areas in summertime
Where to climb in Western Liguria
There are many climbing areas in the Western Liguria, from the most popular destinations to the emerging ones. Let’s discover them together
Finale Ligure area
Definitely the most famous climbing area with beautiful limestone crags that start from the blue sea. In Finale Ligure you can climb some cliffs directly on the coast, you can experience the thrill of climbing to the sky with the sea under your feet.
Everybody know … I’m speaking about “Capo Noli“, one of the most attractive destinations of the area, with its limestone rock overlooking the sea.
More than 10 sq km of rocks, from the sea towards the hinterland, about 200 crags with more than 3000 of routes with different levels of difficulty. There are several sectors with medium-low difficulty routes, suitable for beginners as well as for climbing courses.
Among the most world’s famous rocks , not to be missed are: Montesordo, monte Cucco, Bric Scimarco, Rocca di Corno, Bastionata di Boragni, Rian Cornei, Rocca di Perti
Alpine guides, climbing courses and shops.
There are a lot of specialized climbing shops in Finalborgo and Finale. The favourite climbers’ meeting point is the square of Finalborgo, home to the Central Bar and the climbing shop “Rockstore” which is also an information center
The Alpine guides of the Blue Mountain climbing school (www.bluemountain.it) organize climbing courses for groups and single excursions.
All the useful information ant tipps for climbing in the area of Finale are collected in the new guide “Finale 51”.
Here, close to Finale, you can find other interesting rock walls with about 300 meters of routes with a level between 4 ° and 6B in difficulty. At the base of the climbing wall there are two big panels, with detailed directions about the climbing routes, with length and difficulty level.
Sunny all year round, this crag is also suitable for beginners and families. It is the perfect winter site, while in the summer it is preferable to climb in the afternoon.
Toirano & Varatella Vallay
The area of Val Varatella which overlooks the Municipality of Toirano is characterized by powerful limestone-dolomite masses. The erosion formed natural cavities and shaped the rock creating cliffs suitable for several climbing styles. There are about 500 routes the third level to 8a +
Also here you can find sunny sectors sheltered from the north wind like those of the Grotte area, as well as shadowed ones, suitable to climb from June to September, with many medium-easy routes
As this is a “quite new” climbing site and although the routes have been carefully secured, the use of a helmet is highly recommended.
Castelbianco & the “Pennavaire Valley”
Val Pennavaire has turned out to be a true free climbing paradise!
And above all a new one! At the third place in Italy, after Arco and Finale Ligure, the Valley boasts more than 1,800 routes, mostly brand new and it has not yet run out its potential.
Each season has its crags… In the middle of winter, crags as Red Up, Colosseo, Basura, Bauso Garda, Galera, Circo, Ippodromo e Belvedere dei nonni where on sunny days you can climb just wearing a t-shirts. In summertime, on the other hand, there are cliffs such as Erboristeria, Enoteca Cineplex Reunion Ciusa, Cafeteria, Spaceship, Neighborhood where you can stay in the shade all day long, sometimes refreshed by a nice breeze.
You can climb on all difficulties, from “no big”, that is the easy level, such as Telematics, Enoteca, Tortuga, Grandparents’ Belvedere, to the highest difficulties in the world (with grades on 8C and 9A), on all styles.
There are many crags suitable for families with children, cliffs with short and easy approaches like Telematica, Emisfero, Erboristeria Bassa, Reunion and many others ….
Thanks to the coastline proximity a mix of “climb & swimm” is on your hand.
All tips and advice are collected in a new guide by the Roc Pennavaire association: ” Pennavaire Valley .: a guide to sport climbing”
And if you are not a “crowd lover” there are also the small lakes formed by the Pennavaire river!